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***Disclaimer*** I am not a veterinarian and the methods and products I’ve listed below are simply what I’ve found that works for me and my “herd.” There are plenty of websites with information for you to peruse and trial. A magnificent source of information for me has been a fellow rabbit breeders website. A woman who has been doing this a long time and with great success. Please feel free to check out the link below.
www.wabbithabitat.com
www.wabbithabitat.com
Feeding Information
•Adult bunnies eat 1/2 cup of pellets daily. Baby bunnies may eat less than that but it’s good to keep food available so I personally give them 1/2 cup and then monitor how much is left in the bowl daily.
•It’s important to keep their water bottles and bowls filled, clean and available at all times.
•Hay is a really big part of their diet. We use Timothy second cut hay. Alfalfa hay is also a great option.
•Never allow your bunny to have a “hiccup” in their feeding or watering schedule. This can cause their digestive system to shut down and result in death. This is known as GI Stasis. More detailed information can be found here: https://m.petmd.com/rabbit/conditions/digestive/gastrointestinal-stasis-rabbits-it-really-hairball-causing-blockage
•Bunnies below the age of 6 months are not to be given veggies, fruits, or treats of any kind. After they are 6 months or older it’s best to give them small amounts of approved bunny veggies or fruits to try. After you’ve trialed a few different foods and determine that it’s not causing adverse effect such as runny poo, then you can begin offering snacks a few times a week. Here is a helpful site that will give you an idea of foods to trial.
https://bunnyapproved.com/list-of-fresh-food/
•Please be aware that if you are planning on using a different pellet than your breeder used you must “transition” your bunny to your choice of food. A couple good options are listed on our “what we use” page. Transitioning involves using the food your breeder has provided and sprinkling a bit of the new food in little bits at a time until your food becomes dominant. Here is a great site to help hammer out those details.
https://exoticanimalsupplies.com/pet-rabbit-diet-bunny-food-nutrition/
•It’s important to keep their water bottles and bowls filled, clean and available at all times.
•Hay is a really big part of their diet. We use Timothy second cut hay. Alfalfa hay is also a great option.
•Never allow your bunny to have a “hiccup” in their feeding or watering schedule. This can cause their digestive system to shut down and result in death. This is known as GI Stasis. More detailed information can be found here: https://m.petmd.com/rabbit/conditions/digestive/gastrointestinal-stasis-rabbits-it-really-hairball-causing-blockage
•Bunnies below the age of 6 months are not to be given veggies, fruits, or treats of any kind. After they are 6 months or older it’s best to give them small amounts of approved bunny veggies or fruits to try. After you’ve trialed a few different foods and determine that it’s not causing adverse effect such as runny poo, then you can begin offering snacks a few times a week. Here is a helpful site that will give you an idea of foods to trial.
https://bunnyapproved.com/list-of-fresh-food/
•Please be aware that if you are planning on using a different pellet than your breeder used you must “transition” your bunny to your choice of food. A couple good options are listed on our “what we use” page. Transitioning involves using the food your breeder has provided and sprinkling a bit of the new food in little bits at a time until your food becomes dominant. Here is a great site to help hammer out those details.
https://exoticanimalsupplies.com/pet-rabbit-diet-bunny-food-nutrition/
Toys, Playtime, and Entertainment
We have many things for our bunnies in and out of the cage. For days that are rainy, too cold, or too hot we have an indoor play and exercise area. We bought a large thick rubber water proof mat to protect our floors and easy cleaning in case of any accidents. We have a tunnel, straw mats, apple sticks, litter boxes, food and water, a small cat stand for hopping, and all surrounded by a metal exercise playpen. (Please do not allow young growing bunnies to jump off of high surfaces!) Check out the “what we use” page on our website for pictures and links.
Outdoors we have a few similar metal gates and use similar toys. Our babies are always under our watch while outdoors. Just because they are safe inside their playpen doesn’t mean they are safe. We have a fenced in backyard but there are several dogs that live nearby and we can’t risk one of them getting to our bunnies. Although we’ve never encountered it, snakes could be a potential problem as well. Better to be safe than sorry. We typically don’t let them outside unless the temperature is above freezing or below 85F. When it’s really warm we make sure to set them up in the shade so they don’t get too hot.
In their cages we add hanging chew toys, straw mats, and apple sticks. Again you can find all of these item and links to where you can find them on our “what we use” page.
Outdoors we have a few similar metal gates and use similar toys. Our babies are always under our watch while outdoors. Just because they are safe inside their playpen doesn’t mean they are safe. We have a fenced in backyard but there are several dogs that live nearby and we can’t risk one of them getting to our bunnies. Although we’ve never encountered it, snakes could be a potential problem as well. Better to be safe than sorry. We typically don’t let them outside unless the temperature is above freezing or below 85F. When it’s really warm we make sure to set them up in the shade so they don’t get too hot.
In their cages we add hanging chew toys, straw mats, and apple sticks. Again you can find all of these item and links to where you can find them on our “what we use” page.
Bunny Health
Seek out a rabbit-savvy veterinary local to you for fast and easy access for any bunny emergencies you may encounter. If your rabbit is not eating, drinking, pooping or peeing these are very serious symptoms and you should take your rabbit to the vet immediately. Here is a great site to help you identify problems hat may be concerning for your bunny.
https://myhouserabbit.com/rabbit-health/
https://myhouserabbit.com/rabbit-health/
De-sexing Your Bunny
Male and female rabbits are usually de-sexed between 4-6 months of age. The main reason for de-sexing female rabbits is to prevent uterine cancer. They have a 60-80% chance of developing this if left fully intact. Desexing males is usually between $150-$200, while females are around $300. (Prices may vary or rise depending on many variables. Check with your local vet to get a quote.) Make sure find a vet who has experience desexing rabbits as there aren’t many around who know what they are doing. Rabbits usually recover within a few day of having surgery but it’s best not to introduce your rabbit to other rabbits until 30 days after. As I, personally, do not de-sex my rabbits and my buyers come from all over I do not make recommendations to particular vets. I do recommend however that you do your research and find a place before getting your rabbit so that you can make the appropriate appointments and prepare yourself for what’s involved. Here is a great source of information on the subject.
https://rabbit.org/faq-spaying-and-neutering/
https://rabbit.org/faq-spaying-and-neutering/
